Jasper Gerard reviews

Thursday, April 30, 2009 - I'll start with the main course, given that our waiter did. I want cold roast topside of beef salad. That's finished, so Diana and I share spelt paella with wild mussels, day-boat-caught pollack and chicken. This £25 dish contains four mussels. Diana assures me they are succulent, but they are so tiny I can't verify that. Is the lack of prawns, squid or anything very interesting due to concerns about sustainability, or affordability? Has the chef even heard of stock? And he certainly doesn't believe in being generous with that much-loved paella staple, pimentón.